The Zirkel Circle
Wildflowers - Alpine lakes - Elk
Its winter here in Denver and my mind keeps going back to my all time favorite Colorado hike so far. The Zirkel Circle is a 12.5 mile loop through the Zirkel Wilderness. This hike has been on my list for quite some time. I texted my backpacking buddy Soupsanna and we tackled the loop together. The overnight was complete with wildflowers, a chilly swim in an alpine lake, pika’s and a visit from a snorting elk.
After driving an hour north of Steamboat, my tires lightly bounced off the pavement and we continued a dusty drive down a forest road, the occasional dispersed campsite flying by as I tried not to speed over the grating in the gravel, more than excited to get to the trailhead and get started. Parked roadside cars let us know that we arrived. I went into the weeds to pee while Soup sorted her gear, prepped the pup and changed shoes. After hoisting our packs on our backs, we trudged over to the trail, a stomp through a few mud puddles and we were immersed in yellow flowers past our knees, their leaves tickling my legs as I walked past. The sound of water running was everywhere, the map stated that the trail followed a stream with multiple crossings and waterfalls the entire way.
As the trail slowly started an incline, I noticed the usual negative self talk wasn’t as strong. The surroundings were such a feast for my eyes that the usual “I can’t do this”, “Why do I think this is fun” internal monologue never really picked up. I did have sweat pouring into my eyes and I regretted forgetting my headband, but otherwise it was smooth sailing. A final trudge uphill with burning lungs and we reached the lake, sun was glinting off the surface that was the kind of blue that you only see in pictures. We drop our packs in a little overlook and I decide that I’m jumping in. I’ve always wanted to swim in an alpine lake and a dip would be a great way to rinse off the sweat from the last 4 miles. I strip down to my undies and dip my toe in. The water is so clear, I can see straight to the bottom, theres just 1 big boulder in sight and no weeds, perfect. I take the plunge, no time like the present. It’s frigid but refreshing, I doggie paddle around, bearing the cold as long as possible before dragging myself out. After Soupsanna takes a dip, we lay on a rock in the sun like a couple lizards, drying off and warming up.
The pass we need to get up and over is looming behind our heads and then we need to find a spot to camp for the night. Pulling our clothes back on over still wet underwear, we hit the dusty trail again. The final push reveals towering peaks and the blue sky is reflected in the lake below, puffy clouds passing overhead. A light breeze cools my face, which immediately is covered in sweat despite the recent frigid dip. The ground is sprinkled with yellow and purple flowers, large rocks interrupting the landscape. I stand and soak up the view and breath. I want to stand here forever and take in every detail, every sound of the chirping bird and squeaking pika.
We get up and over and start the descent, pika’s chirping at us from rocks. We decide to hike until we find an area with running water. 2 miles later, we stumble upon a valley with a stream babbling along next to it, a flat field that opens into tree-covered mountains. We wander around, looking for a flat spot. We pitching our tents and spread out gear, getting organized for dinner and for the evening. Cooking small pots of food and talking about the books we brought and the trail behind us, we then hang our food bags and I dig my cathole for the next morning. Knowing my bowels, its the first thing I’ll do as soon as I’m up. I climb into my tiny shelter as the sun sets, cozy with nothing but a few millimeters of nylon between me and the outside.
Its 9:30 and I have to pee, I drag myself into the almost dark, my head lamp casting a narrow beam through the darkness. A sudden thunder of hooves and a streak of a tan body shoots in front of me. “JESUS CHRIST” I yell! Another large body scrambles up the hill directly across from me. I realize its 2 elk cows getting a drink from the stream next to our campground. After my heart goes back to its normal spot in my chest, I squat and pee and head back to my tent. I yell at Soup “Theres 2 elk out here, just in case you get up in the middle of the night, they scared the shit out of me!”
Crawling into my bag, I can hear them rooting around going about their night time elk activities. Knowing what they are makes the sounds completely non-threatening and I start to doze off, knowing creatures are right outside my door. I’m somewhere between sleep and waking when a loud snort, clearly a few feet from my tent has me on all fours screaming bloody murder. The thunder of hooves takes off away from me. I hear Soupsanna, yell “Are you okay!!??” I’m still on my hands and knees in my sleeping bag “Something just snorted next to my tent!”. I see her headlamp shining through my rain fly, “Can you see it?”. I untangle myself from my sleeping bag and poke my head outside. “No!, I’m just emerging from my tent” I know that its likely the elk but I’m still a bit shaken. The camp up the hill is up and shining their lights in my direction, clearly having heard my screech. We stand together between our tents, scanning our headlamps into the terrain, the light reflecting off of the rope of our food bags, hanging in the trees up the hill behind our camp. Suddenly there’s 2 glowing green eyes 20 yards away, about 5 feet off the ground, attached to a big tan body. “Its the elk!” I say. “But what are those eyes up by our food bags?” asks Soup. We spend a few minutes discussing what color bear vs mountain lion vs ungulate eyes glow and decide we have no idea. “Should we walk over there and scare it off?” she asks. “Its weird that they aren’t leaving, shouldn’t they be running off?” We trudge toward the beast, me cursing my headlamp for not being brighter, wishing I had my car's headlight attached to my head instead. The elk runs up the hill toward the other camp. We head back to our tents, I decide to move mine right next to Soup’s, my brain knows that I’m not in danger but I would rather be right next to her for peace of mind. We’re now so close that we could sit up and see into each others tent. I pick up my book, knowing its going to take a hot minute to calm down and fall back asleep. I leave my tent lights on all night, hoping its not to annoying to my neighbor, that I hear lightly snoring a few feet from me. I finally fall asleep and wake around 6am, the sound of a few birds twittering, announcing the coming arrival of the sun. The usual “I survived another night in the woods” crosses my mind and I force myself out into the pre-dawn to pee. I then pick up my tent and move it back to its spot, pre-elk, 20 yards away. I crawl back in and fall back asleep.
In the morning sun, we laugh about my screeching, I didn’t even know I could channel that sound, I’m more of a Hank Hill yeller “Ahhh” than a screamer but apparently my subconscious could really let er rip. We slowly make breakfast and camp coffee and pack up our gear. We have about 4 miles to hike out, all downhill and then we’re back at the car. We pick our way down the trail, stopping at another small lake, watching an eagle soar over head and dreaming about cheeseburgers and beer and dreading the drive home, if only we could stay out here forever.
The Zirkel Circle is a trip I offer, its a easy/moderate 12 mile loop with a few climbs though mountain meadows to an alpine lake before decending into the valley on the other side of the pass.
